We like the quality & style of this faucet. Simple mechanical valve to avoid the automation headaches of touch It has been in use for only about 16 days, so time will tell how well it will holdup.It replaces an over 15 year old Delta (several valve rebuilds along the way) that needed a new pullout faucet head, that is the sprayer & the parts were no longer available. This old faucet had the separate valve body that mounted to the counter top independent of the faucet, because of the asymmetrical sink design a typical faucet with a Escutcheon would not work. Faucet needed to be in the far right hole to reach the much larger side of the sinkThis seems to be a low flow/ water saver faucet. We find the flow adequate & are happy there is not so much flow that water splashes everywhere. However, it does take longer to fill the sink. This was not a surprise to me as other reviews had mentioned the low flow feature.While using the pullout sprayer, if your not careful, it is possible to "kink the water line" & interrupt the flow of water. This has only happened to me a couple of times, when raising the sprayer above the exit point of the pull-down faucet while trying to rinse a very tall item that was well above counter top height. All you need to do is extend the hose first, with your other hand if you want to hold the spraying head up above the faucet, exit point without kinking the water hose.Not that hard to install, if you are handy or experienced with replacing a faucet---> Faucet was direct mounted to our 1 1/4 (1.25) inch thick, stone countertop---> We decided to mount the faucet with the handle in the Center, closest to the sink. This way you can turn the water off with the back of your hand & keep the water dripping from your fingers over the sink. Instead of dripping water on to the counter top every time you touch the valve handle with wet hands.I Used - Westbrass 2" Kitchen Sink Hole Cover, Stainless Steel, D202-20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00403BXWC to seal the extra hole in the stone countertop - (great product see my review)The directions ... they are not very good for non technical or those without experience changing faucets .... the directions are not custom to this faucet -- You will need to figure-out which part of the universal directions apply / is closest to your faucet.The hardest parts?1) Removing the 15+ yr old faucet .... brass nut & brass threads of faucet were a bit crusty & the valve body above the counter started turning, As this was going to be scrap ... I used vice-grip pliers & a thick rag against the backsplash to keep it from turning.2) Next was keeping that thin plastic base-plate centered, under the new faucet during the install as it kept moving. (poor design IMO) ---> Delta needs to rethink that design -- It Should snap into place & stay thereSteps - to install1a) Know where & how to turn off the water to the entire house & test that the valve works. If things go poorly you will want to know it works. The valves under the sink do not always work or stop all water flow. Stuff happens1b) If you have a well, know how to turn it off & how to valve off or drain the pressure.1c) Wear eye protection ... stuff is going to fall in your face while your on your back & working under the sink2) Shut off water under sink & test that water does not come-out of the faucet. Always support the valve body while turning the valve handle, to keep stresses off of the pipe.3) With bucket or rags handy remove the waterlines to the old faucet. Expect 1/4 to 1/2 cup of water to drain from the lines. Always support the valve body with a second wrench, while turning nut to water line to keep stresses off of the pipe.4) Install the faucet into the counter. Confirm the location & orientation of the faucet before your final tightening. Having a second person handy to check the final location, before you complete tightening the nut, helps limit the up/down trips, under the cabinet.5) Connect the water supply lines to the valve. Always support the valve body with a second wrench, while turning nut to water line to keep stresses off of the pipe.6) Flush the valve set, let some water (1 gallon should do) run through the Hot & Cold sides - catch what comes out of the faucet feed line, in a container.If you have a second person they can operate the faucet valve from above the counter. Solo install ... Open the valve on faucet body, so hot & cold water will flow & then use the water supply valve under the sink to control the flow into your bucket.7) Install the sliding counter weight --> then make the connection to the pullout faucet ---> Install the locking clip & test that it is locked8) Open water valves under sink. Always support the valve body while turning the valve handle, to keep stresses off of the pipe.9) Check for leaks, open valve on faucet & check flow & then look under counter & inspect for leaks againThings that Helped:---> I used the floor mats from the kitchen to make laying on the cabinet edge much more comfortable.---> I used the correct size of combination wrenches & a deep sock with extension & a ratchet drive, to speed up the install.---> To remove the old faucet, I used a basin wrench & vice-grip pliers to hold the old valve (from spinning) to get the nut off when the threads got a little tight. Brass threads to old faucet getting a little crusty in 15+ years was expected