First thing's first, if you are not comfortable handling and taking apart small electronics then this product is not for you. However, if you are experienced with this type of thing then it will not be too difficult.Note: I bought only the JoyCon case and therefor do not have experience taking apart the tablet.Now for the star rating:Pros:Very good quality of plasticComfortable and feels good in handsLooks greatGood button functionCons:There are areas in which the plastic must be cut down to fit the parts together properlyDoes not include exterior screwsNow for some tips for getting this assembled successfully.Tools I recommend:Small Philips head screwdriverSmall tri-wing screw driverSharp tipped tweezersRazor blade/craft knife (for cutting the plastic)Double stick tapeScissorsReplacement Metal Latches:You can find these on Amazon and the kits include some of the tools you need for taking apart the JoyCons if you do not already have them. It is also a worthwhile mod since the plastic latches for keeping the JoyCons locked into the tablet section tend to chip easily.Cutting the Plastic:On the product I received there were three places where the plastic must be shaved down. The first two places are right next to the JoyCon release button. The small slot where the button sits has some extra plastic so that the bottom of the slot is slightly raised from the bottom of the plastic. The original shell has this slot flush with the bottom plastic where the button sits. This must be shaved down or else the locking latch will not click into the Switch tablet. This location is circled in red on the back view of the JoyCon. This problem exists on both JoyCon shells. The second place is just under the + button on the right JoyCon where the black rail slots into the face plate. This may or may not exist on your own product. There is a slight protrusion at the bottom of the slot that prevented the black rail from being fully inserted into the face plate. This location is circled on the picture of the front of the right JoyCon.Once this is done its easy to deal with the rest of the disassembly and reassembly. Though I highly recommend checking a guide for JoyCon disassembly before attempting it yourself.Double Stick Tape:This is potentially optional. However, without the tape inside some parts may rattle and make noise. Simply cut some tape down to size and stick it in any places there was tape in the original shell. The three locations that did not pull off with the internal parts for me is between the black rail and the back plate, under the battery, and under the black ribbon cable from the IR camera.Before Removing the Main Board:When taking apart the right JoyCon, you must disconnect the ribbon cables from the NFC antenna and the IR camera before taking out the main board. Take care when removing the NFC antenna as it is stuck down with tape and it may be easy to damage the copper wires going around it. The NFC antenna can be seen on the full view picture, it is the copper wire going around the joystick and home button. In my case, I left as many ribbon cables attached as possible.The Shoulder Buttons:I have included a picture of one of the shoulder buttons. You can see that there is a slot which goes around the round pegs that connect it to the middle piece (battery holder). I have seen people use unreasonable force when removing and attaching the shoulder button which led to breaking the electronic button itself. I remove the shoulder button by prying up one side of the button and then pushing it off with a flat head screwdriver (pushing toward the top of the device). It goes back in the same way, simply set the slots at the pegs and it should easily slide in. Take care so that you do not impact the electronic button during this process. Also, to make things easier, I used the tweezers to remove the springs first and to put them back after reinstalling the button.Screws:This is where including external screws with this product would be helpful. The original screws are fragile and require a lot of force to screw them into the new shell. There is a way to overcome this though. Once you have removed the four-external tri-wing screws, use those screws to tap the screw holes before attempting to assemble the shell. Tapping the screw hole is to add threads to the hole. To do this, take the screwdriver and carefully screw them into the holes. Every few turns, back the screw out a few turns and then keep screwing it in. Do this until the screw moves easily and there is a small amount of space between the screw head and the top of the screw hole. If you feel your screwdriver start to slip during this process, use a different screw for the remaining holes. This is how to avoid stripping the external screws. I recommend doing this with every screw as you take them out in order to reduce the force needed to screw them in with the electronics attached. If at any time you manage to strip the external screws, don't panic. Since you first screwed them in without the back plate you can remove the screw with pliers by grabbing them and turning. There is also a listing on Amazon for replacement screws.