| Manufacturer | JessEm |
|---|---|
| Part Number | 02310-JESSEM_K1 |
| Item Weight | 10.7 pounds |
| Product Dimensions | 18.5 x 14 x 12.4 inches |
| Item model number | 0231002030 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Style | Ring Kit |
| Power Source | Hand Powered |
| Item Package Quantity | 1 |
| Certification | (unset) |
| Included Components | Router Lift |
| Batteries Included? | No |
| Batteries Required? | No |
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This Item  JessEm 02310 Rout-R-Lift II Router Lift and 02030 10-Piece Insert Ring Kit with Caddy Bundle (2 Items) (0231002030) |  |  |  |  | |
| Price | Currently unavailable. | $249.99 | -24% $151.80 List: $199.00 | $349.00 | $97.89 |
| Delivery | — | Get it as soon as Saturday, May 11 | Get it as soon as Saturday, May 11 | Get it as soon as Saturday, May 11 | Get it as soon as Monday, May 13 |
| Customer Ratings | |||||
| Accuracy | |||||
| Easy to use | |||||
| Sturdiness | |||||
| Sold By | — | Amazon.com | Amazon.com | Pattern. | POWERTEC USA |
| power source | Hand Powered | Corded Electric | Corded Electric | — | — |
| material | — | MDF | Plastic | — | Engineered Wood |
| voltage | — | 120 volts | 120 volts | 0 volts | — |
| weight | 10.7 pounds | 30 pounds | 4.5 kilograms | 10.75 pounds | — |
Reviews with images
Saved $300 over a SawStop Router Lift
I could not find anywhere that this JessEm 02310 Rout-R-Lift II Router Lift would fit in or work with my SawStop cast iron router table (RT-TGP). I just bought it and said I'd make it work. The JessEM fits the Router table hole exactly but the mounting bolt holes do not line up at all. I was going to make brackets and do all that when I said I was just going to drill 2 new holes in the JessEM Base.Set the JessEM lift in the Router Table hole as it should be. From underneath drill up with a very small 1/8" but through the center of the cast iron Mounting holes on each side. These are the mounting holes that you would normally mount the SawStop Lift to. They are the Center holes on the left and right of the SawStop router table if you are standing at the end of the Router Table facing the saw blade. I have one pic with a screw in one of the holes that you will use. Drill just enough to mark the JessEM where you want to put the new mounting holes. Take out the JessEM and finish drilling all the way through to the front (yes you are drilling from the back side of the JessEM) with the 1/8" bit. I laid the JessEM over the hole in the Router table to do this instead of raising it on blocks. Turn over the JessEM and lay it in the Router table hole and drill the mounting holes from the front side. I used a bit just slightly larger than 1/4" so it would give some wiggle room. Now use a countersink and drill it deep enough so that the mounting screw rests below the surface plane of the JessEM. The SawStop router table has Leveling screws that come up from the bottom - use 2 of these as your JesssEM mounting screws. I did not put the SawStop leveling screws in the center left and right holes, but I did in the other holes that go around the base of the lift just because. The JessEM comes with It's own set screws to Level the JessEM from the top so use those to level the face plate of the JessEM.This leaves the large corner holes on the JessEM face where I suspect are the intended Mounting holes open. I did not like that. These holes are partially blocked by the Cast Iron recessed Plate on the SawStop router table. Rather that cut and grind the table away All I did was cut the mounting screws that came with the JessEM to a 1/4" in length, put glue on the edges that touch the surface of the JessEM and drop them in the corner holes. They cover the holes and are purely cosmetic (they will help with vacuum air leak) and no one will know but ppl that read this.The hard part about making this work was coming up with the idea to make it simple and easy to adapt the JessEM to the SawStop.Good Luck. I hope this helps.
Top reviews from the United States
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Reviewed in the United States on September 25, 2023
Reviewed in the United States on September 11, 2020
Reviewed in the United States on September 26, 2022
Edit: changed from 4 to 5 stars. The adjustment lever works, its just very tight and needed some sanding to fit snug. Still no issues with it. Very easy to remove and reinstall the router when i need to. I got the extra throat plates, honestly think i could have done without them though.
All good, but they sent the wrong adjustment lever
Reviewed in the United States on September 26, 2022
This is easy to use and set up. I am liking it. But they sent the wrong adjustment lever/wrench to raise and lower the router. It is too big and doest fit. And I am unable to reach customer service about it. Otherwise it would be 5 stars all around. Im very irritated about that.Reviewed in the United States on September 26, 2022
Edit: changed from 4 to 5 stars. The adjustment lever works, its just very tight and needed some sanding to fit snug. Still no issues with it. Very easy to remove and reinstall the router when i need to. I got the extra throat plates, honestly think i could have done without them though.
Images in this review
Reviewed in the United States on November 7, 2022
Reviewed in the United States on February 23, 2023
I could not find anywhere that this JessEm 02310 Rout-R-Lift II Router Lift would fit in or work with my SawStop cast iron router table (RT-TGP). I just bought it and said I'd make it work. The JessEM fits the Router table hole exactly but the mounting bolt holes do not line up at all. I was going to make brackets and do all that when I said I was just going to drill 2 new holes in the JessEM Base.
Set the JessEM lift in the Router Table hole as it should be. From underneath drill up with a very small 1/8" but through the center of the cast iron Mounting holes on each side. These are the mounting holes that you would normally mount the SawStop Lift to. They are the Center holes on the left and right of the SawStop router table if you are standing at the end of the Router Table facing the saw blade. I have one pic with a screw in one of the holes that you will use. Drill just enough to mark the JessEM where you want to put the new mounting holes. Take out the JessEM and finish drilling all the way through to the front (yes you are drilling from the back side of the JessEM) with the 1/8" bit. I laid the JessEM over the hole in the Router table to do this instead of raising it on blocks. Turn over the JessEM and lay it in the Router table hole and drill the mounting holes from the front side. I used a bit just slightly larger than 1/4" so it would give some wiggle room. Now use a countersink and drill it deep enough so that the mounting screw rests below the surface plane of the JessEM. The SawStop router table has Leveling screws that come up from the bottom - use 2 of these as your JesssEM mounting screws. I did not put the SawStop leveling screws in the center left and right holes, but I did in the other holes that go around the base of the lift just because. The JessEM comes with It's own set screws to Level the JessEM from the top so use those to level the face plate of the JessEM.
This leaves the large corner holes on the JessEM face where I suspect are the intended Mounting holes open. I did not like that. These holes are partially blocked by the Cast Iron recessed Plate on the SawStop router table. Rather that cut and grind the table away All I did was cut the mounting screws that came with the JessEM to a 1/4" in length, put glue on the edges that touch the surface of the JessEM and drop them in the corner holes. They cover the holes and are purely cosmetic (they will help with vacuum air leak) and no one will know but ppl that read this.
The hard part about making this work was coming up with the idea to make it simple and easy to adapt the JessEM to the SawStop.
Good Luck. I hope this helps.
Set the JessEM lift in the Router Table hole as it should be. From underneath drill up with a very small 1/8" but through the center of the cast iron Mounting holes on each side. These are the mounting holes that you would normally mount the SawStop Lift to. They are the Center holes on the left and right of the SawStop router table if you are standing at the end of the Router Table facing the saw blade. I have one pic with a screw in one of the holes that you will use. Drill just enough to mark the JessEM where you want to put the new mounting holes. Take out the JessEM and finish drilling all the way through to the front (yes you are drilling from the back side of the JessEM) with the 1/8" bit. I laid the JessEM over the hole in the Router table to do this instead of raising it on blocks. Turn over the JessEM and lay it in the Router table hole and drill the mounting holes from the front side. I used a bit just slightly larger than 1/4" so it would give some wiggle room. Now use a countersink and drill it deep enough so that the mounting screw rests below the surface plane of the JessEM. The SawStop router table has Leveling screws that come up from the bottom - use 2 of these as your JesssEM mounting screws. I did not put the SawStop leveling screws in the center left and right holes, but I did in the other holes that go around the base of the lift just because. The JessEM comes with It's own set screws to Level the JessEM from the top so use those to level the face plate of the JessEM.
This leaves the large corner holes on the JessEM face where I suspect are the intended Mounting holes open. I did not like that. These holes are partially blocked by the Cast Iron recessed Plate on the SawStop router table. Rather that cut and grind the table away All I did was cut the mounting screws that came with the JessEM to a 1/4" in length, put glue on the edges that touch the surface of the JessEM and drop them in the corner holes. They cover the holes and are purely cosmetic (they will help with vacuum air leak) and no one will know but ppl that read this.
The hard part about making this work was coming up with the idea to make it simple and easy to adapt the JessEM to the SawStop.
Good Luck. I hope this helps.
Images in this review
